“When Dubai’s World Cup horse race nears, the well-heeled crowd rushes to Satwa, an area famous for its textile and tailoring shops. They’re among the oldest businesses in Dubai. My picks: Nippur Trading (971-4/349-2446), a beautifully organized clothier with impeccable service, and Fida General Trading (971-4/344-4008), a trimmings store that stocks everything from glue guns to underwear. Always haggle; prices can come down quite a bit.”
Shakshuka: “The original Dubai version of this specialty (eggs baked in spicy tomato sauce) is at Baker & Spice Dubai ($$$). It comes with a stack of toasted French farmhouse bread.”
Chicken achari: “You’ll find this slightly sharp, stewlike curry from Pakistan at Ravi’s (971-4/331-5353; $), in Satwa.”
Restaurants
$ Less than $25
$$ $25 to $75
$$$ $75 to $150
$$$$ More than $150