The approach to Moremi Gorge gives little hint of what lies ahead. Beyond the entrance gate, a track leads past campsites (per adult/child P70/35) with their cold-water ablutions blocks, to a parking area. From here, a trail leads into this vertiginous canyon. Apart from the sheer beauty of the site and the abundant birdlife (with Cape vultures wheeling overhead or perched at their nesting sites high on the cliffs), watch for small ancestral shrines in rocky clefts and the signposted boulder that fell to the valley floor on the day that Botswana’s president Sir Seretse Khama died on 13 July 1980. Back near the site entrance, there are some lovely en-suite chalets (single/double P350/450) which opened in 2012; they have fine views towards the hills from their large balconies, with state-of-the-art Alva barbecues on hand.