Alexandria’s ancient library was one of the greatest of all classical institutions, and while replacing it might seem a Herculean task, the new Bibliotheca Alexandrina manages it with aplomb. Opened in 2002, this impressive piece of modern architecture is a deliberate attempt to rekindle the brilliance of the original centre of learning and culture. The complex has become one of Egypt’s major cultural venues, a stage for numerous international performers, and is home to a collection of brilliant museums.
The building takes the form of a gigantic angled discus embedded in the ground, evoking a second sun rising out of the Mediterranean. The granite exterior walls are carved with letters, pictograms, hieroglyphs and symbols from more than 120 different human scripts. Inside, the jaw-dropping main reading room can accommodate eight million books and 2500 readers under its sloping roof, with windows specially designed to let sunlight flood in but keep out rays that might harm the collection.
In addition to the main reading room, there are four specialised libraries (a children's library for ages six to 11; a youth library for ages 11 to 17; a multimedia library; and a library for the blind) and a huge array of other diversions. There are four permanent museums, a planetarium, a conference centre, a range of temporary and permanent exhibitions, and a full schedule of events. To fully explore this very worthy attraction, you should allot half a day, though to gape at the astounding main reading room and do a tour, you’ll need an hour or so.
Tickets to the library can be bought outside the main entrance, where all bags must be checked. Audio guides are also available in English, Arabic and French.
Note that while the library has a wide range of kid-friendly activities and diversions, little ones under the age of six are not admitted to the library complex. Helpfully, day care is available during opening hours. The library is on the seafront, and you can easily get there by taxi, microbus or by walking along the Corniche.
The Museums
A beautifully displayed collection of ancient texts, antiquarian books and maps are hosted in the Manuscript Museum , including a copy of the only surviving scroll from Alexandria's ancient library.
The Antiquities Museum has a well-curated exhibition of artefacts that romp from the Egyptian, through the Greek and Roman periods, and into the Byzantine and Islamic eras. The focus though is on the Graeco-Roman period. The highlight display is of the antiquities discovered during underwater excavations in the harbour and at Aboukir. Also, the collection of finds unearthed when the foundations of the library were dug are particularly interesting, including a fine Roman mosaic of a dog.
In the Sadat Museum , ex-president Anwar Sadat's time in office is documented using a series of multimedia displays of the leader's speeches, photographs and information on the Egypt–Israel peace process that he brokered.
The History of Science Museum underneath the Planetarium is targeted at children of school age and covers the contribution to science of three key historic eras – Pharaonic Egypt, Hellenistic Alexandria and the Islamic era.
The Bibliotheca's exhibition halls are home to several permanent exhibitions including a hall showcasing the work of contemporary Arabic artists; a fascinating heritage collection with gorgeously displayed textiles, folk art and Arabic science equipment from the Medieval period; and the wonderful Impressions of Alexandria Exhibition, which does a sterling job of tracing the city’s long history through drawings, maps and early photographs. There’s also a video program on Egyptian history called the Culturama , displayed on nine screens.
The Planetarium is a futuristic neon-lit sphere looming on the plaza in front of the library, like a mini Death Star from Star Wars . It shows 3D films hourly on a rotating schedule (see website), and has an Exploratorium as well as the aforementioned History of Science Museum, which are both great for kids.
