Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches , all built below ground level, aren’t just carved into the rock but freed from it. And the carving, both inside and out, is exceptionally refined. Although time has treated most with gentle gloves, Unesco has built protective roofing. Fortunately, despite the intrusive design, this won’t detract much from your enjoyment.
The ticket office lies at the northwestern group (which makes the southeastern group less busy in the morning) and an uninspired museum down below displays the usual church items. Local licensed guides can be arranged at the ticket office. The fee is Birr350 per site. Lalibela town is considered one site, but if you go to several of the churches outside Lalibela the guides will be expecting a big payday. Realistically, prices are all negotiable. Although visiting without a guide is possible (getting lost in the warren of tunnels and trenches is quite memorable), you’ll miss out on many of the amazing subtleties each church has to offer. The guides also know many good photo viewpoints.
Some people rush through in a half-day, but this simply isn’t enough time. A second day allows proper appreciation. A 6am visit to see the locals in private worship can be enchanting. Many of the priests are more than happy to show off their church’s treasures and pose obligingly beside them for photos. Since they get a cut of the entry fee, it’s not necessary to tip for this. Note that camera flashes inside churches cause great damage to the paintings, so please resist using one.
Lastly, don’t forget to bring your torch for the tunnel between Bet Gabriel-Rufael and Bet Merkorios, or in case there’s a power cut.
