Although by Ethiopian standards wildlife is fairly abundant in this dramatically beautiful 2162-sq-km park , there’s no chance of an East African safari–style experience. Poaching remains a problem and the thick acacia woodland dominating the plains makes seeing what wildlife remains quite tough. About the only animals you can expect to see along the northern road during most of the day are dik-diks, baboons and guinea fowl. Wildlife watching is much better along the road to the headquarters and at the abandoned airstrip 5km further on where you can expect to spot buffalo, Burchell’s zebras, lesser kudus, defassa waterbucks, gerenuks, black-and-white colobus, and (with some luck) one of the 300 elephants. Lions, leopards, cheetahs and giraffes are rarely encountered. If you make arrangements with your guide the day before you can leave Jinka very early and spend several hours in the park before visiting the Mursi.
If you’re serious about searching out wildlife , you’ll need to overnight at the campsite near the headquarters and Neri River. (There are no crocodiles, so bathing is safe.) There’s a water pump and pit toilets, and drinks can be bought at the headquarters. Tsetse flies are problematic: avoid wearing blue or black, which seems to attract them.
Even though buses now pass through the park, they’re of no use to visitors. The northern road is graded, but a 4WD is needed for the really rough 12km drive to the headquarters and campsite. Walking in the park is allowed and recommended. The ranger station at the entrance to the park is usually closed in the morning, but it’s routine to pay when leaving.
