From a distance, this memorial to the victims of the Derg could be mistaken for the world’s biggest golf ball and tee. From up close it’s another story, with larger-than-life statues flanking the tower that illustrate the true cost of war. The domed building just to the north is a museum that exalts the successes and sacrifices made by the Tigrayan People’s Liberation Front (TPLF) during the 1970s and ‘80s.