On the way to Yemrehanna Kristos, around 35km from Lalibela, is this three-quarter monolith church in a wild, overgrown but rather beautiful setting. It’s thought to have been built by King Kaleb in AD 518. Arbatu ensessa means ‘the four beasts’ after the four Evangelists, Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. It’s five minutes’ walk from the road.
