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Narga Selassie
Set in the middle of the lake on Dek Island, Narga Selassie is peaceful, atmospheric and little visited. Built in the mid-18th century, it has a Gonderian influence and the fine original paintings include a portrait of Mentewab and there’s also a bas-relief of James Bruce (smoking
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Melka Kunture
An hour from Addis, just over the Awash River, is the Melka Kunture Prehistoric Site, where many stone tools and fossils, dating back 1.8 million years, have been found. Examples are displayed in four tukuls (huts), including tools used by the Homo erectus who once inhabited the ar
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Mikael Milhaizengi
This tiny church, with its stooped doorway, is hewn into the top of a small bleached hill and is thought to date from the 8th century. It’s known for its 3m-high carved dome ceiling that resembles a himbasha (a favourite round bread of Tigrayans) and it’s believed by locals to be t
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Mandaba Medhane Alem
Of Tana’s four other far northern monasteries, all west of Gorgora, Mandaba Medhane Alem, which hosts ancient biblical manuscripts and some of Ethiopia’s most dedicated priests, is the only one that most consider worth a trip; even though its paintings only date to 1991. It takes 3
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Ras Makonnen’s Palace
Don’t expect a fairy-tale castle. This late-19th-century ‘palace’ is a sharp-edged, charmless building currently under renovation. During construction, and surely after it as well, you can climb to the top floor and soak up the views. What is called Queen Taitu’s Palace next door i
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Martyrs’ Memorial
From a distance, this memorial to the victims of the Derg could be mistaken for the world’s biggest golf ball and tee. From up close it’s another story, with larger-than-life statues flanking the tower that illustrate the true cost of war. The domed building just to the north is a
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Kafira Market
With its Babel-like ambience, the enormous Kafira Market, sprawling way beyond its Moorish-style arches, is the most striking. Delving into the organised chaos of its narrow lanes is an assault on the senses. This market attracts people from miles around, including Afar and Somali
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Fish Market
There’s a one-table fish market in the mud-hut deacon’s village behind St George’s Church. The catch is brought in by tankwa in the morning and pelicans come to feed on the scraps in the afternoon.
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Ras Gimb
Though its early history is murky (it was likely built in the 17th century though some say 18th) this attractive palace once served as a retreat for Haile Selassie, a residence for Italian generals and a torture chamber for the Derg. It’s now under renovation to serve as a museum o
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Mikael Imba
Of all Tigray’s rock-hewn churches, Mikael Imba, possibly dating from the 11th century, most resembles those seen at Lalibela. A three-quarter monolith, the interior is huge (16.6m wide and 9m deep) with 25 pillars (nine freestanding) holding up the 6m-high ceiling. The view from h
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Bete Maryam
Founded in the 13th century, Bete Maryam, near the tip of the peninsula, is the oldest monastery on Zege and its attractive church has some excellent murals that, unfortunately, suffered water damage. It’s a short walk from the landing through lemon and coffee trees. Just uphill fr
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Forty Springs
Arba Minch, which is Amharic for ‘Forty Springs’, is named after the innumerable little springs that bubble up right at the base of the ridge below the town. All the development (the city pumps its water from here) and the fact that it’s not especially scenic to begin with makes it
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Old Quarter
It’s worth taking a wander around the old quarter surrounding the Northern Stelae Field and stretching west to Ta’akha Maryam. It’s in these dusty streets that it really hits you how Aksum is more than just a collection of dead ruins; rather it’s a living, breathing community where
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Adadi Maryam
Around 4km south of Melka Kunture, there’s a signposted turn-off to Ethiopia’s southernmost rock-hewn church, Adadi Maryam. Believed to date from the 12th or 13th century, Adadi Maryam is fairly crude in comparison with its counterparts in Lalibela, but if you won’t be travelling n
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Sodo Museum
If you’re not in a rush, visit Sodo Museum. It has various objects on display in the big round hall – the metal and brick exterior covers a traditional-style king’s palace – including 2m-long musical horns, elephant-skin shields and a typical family’s home. It’s just past the south
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Yohannes Maequdi
High atop the mountain and not visible from the ground below, this rectangular chapel has six freestanding pillars that support a ceiling carved with geometrical designs. While it’s best known for well-preserved murals, it’s less striking overall than Abuna Abraham and most visitor
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Ura Kidane Meret
The Zege Peninsula’s largest and most famous monastery is hardly the most attractive on the outside, but it’s maqdas (inner sanctuary) is beautifully painted and it holds an important collection of 14th- to 20th-century crosses and crowns which will soon be displayed in a big new m
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Lake Shore
Lounging lakeside is an essential part of the Bahir Dar experience. You’ll often glimpse the flimsy, yet unsinkable tankwa canoe. Made from woven papyrus, they can take huge loads, including oxen! They’re exactly the same as the papyrus boats depicted on the walls of ancient temple
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Smugglers’ Market
The alleyway leading from the recycling market transforms into a second-hand and custom-made clothing market, called Cigaratera (‘Cigarette Row’) after it’s former incarnation, which is at the backside of the Smugglers’ Market, chock-full of counterfeit clothing and electronics (so
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Lakes Abaya & Chamo
Divided by the lyrical ‘Bridge of God’, Lakes Abaya and Chamo are both beautiful. Measuring 1160 sq km, Lake Abaya is Ethiopia’s second-largest lake. Its peculiar reddish-brown waters are a result of elevated natural concentrations of suspended sediments. While the more conventiona
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