Most people are here for the beach – a 12km-long sweep of sand where you’re guaranteed an isolated spot (at least if you’re prepared to walk some way) to catch some rays. But as locals say, 'Yana vuta kwa kasi ' – ‘There's a violent current there’. And no lifeguards. Tourists drown every year, so don’t swim out too far. It should be pointed out that, beautiful as Shela beach is, it’s more of a wild, windy, empty kind of beauty rather than an intimate, palm-tree-backed, tropical beauty.