Head east along the road past the Robert Edward Hart museum and you come to a grassy cliff top, which affords a view of the black rocky coastline and broken reef. A path leads down to the wild and empty Gris Gris beach; a wooden sign warns of the dangers of swimming here. The term gris gris traditionally refers to 'black magic', and looking at the tortuous coastline, you can see how the area got its name. Then again, another story suggests that the beach was named after the puppy (!) of a French cartographer who visited in 1753.