Eight kilometres north of town, below a spectacular viewing point over the palmeraie follow, ‘Musée’ signs to a triple-storey mudbrick home that houses this fascinating desert-culture museum. In the tea salon, you’ll find key equipment for desert entertaining c 1930: a vintage ham radio, a gramophone, and tea glasses believed to shatter on contact with poison. Artifacts are tagged with insightful explanations of their origins and purpose in French and English – very helpful for explaining otherwise mysterious tattooing implements, the intriguing birthing room and markedly different wedding garments from five local tribes.