The once-glorious stronghold has been left to crumble, and the best indication of Telouet’s former position as the centre of a trans-Saharan trading empire is the 2nd-floor reception rooms . No less than 300 artisans worked on salons faceted with stucco, zellij and painted cedar ceilings that make Marrakesh’s royal Bahia Palace seem like a freshman artisan effort. After independence, Pasha Glaoui was ousted from the Bahia Palace and died shortly thereafter of cancer in exile in Telouet.