One of the great pleasures of Morocco's Atlantic coast is to take a boat out on Merja Zerga (the Blue Lagoon), preferably with a bird guide who can bring the place to life. The 73-sq-km Merja Zerga National Park (4 sq km of water and the rest marshland) is protected by the Ramsar Convention and attracts thousands of migrant birds, including wildfowl, waders and flamingos in huge numbers, making it one of Morocco’s prime birdwatching habitats. The lagoon is between 50cm and 4m deep depending on the tide. Ninety percent of the water comes from the sea, 10% is sweetwater from the Oued Dredr, south of the lagoon. At the time of research, the new tourist office was not yet open.
Although the largest flocks are present in December and January, you’ll find herons, flamingos, ibises, spoonbills, plovers and egrets here as late as March or April, and there are about 100 species all year round. The calm lagoon is also a good place to see slender-billed and Audouin’s gulls, and the African marsh owl. Shelducks, teals, and numerous terns are frequently seen, as are marsh harriers and peregrine falcons.
There are six villages around the lake, four of which depend on agriculture, two on fishing – the men fish the lagoon and the ocean while the women gather shellfish.
Most of the fishermen take tourists around the lake as a sideline. Boat trips with the local boatmen, who have had some guide training, are easily arranged if you wander down to the small beach where the boats are moored. Expect to pay about Dh100 per hour for the boat. The only officially recognised (and by far the best) guide is Hassan Dalil , who can also be contacted at the Café Milano (on the main road into town), where the bird log is kept. Call him rather than ask for him as several people have been known to pretend to be him in order to take his business. Otherwise ask the waiters at the Café Milano to call him. Trips can also be arranged through Villanora. The boatmen can also arrange fishing trips (Dh100 per hour, including equipment).
Hard-core birdwatchers may also want to explore Merja Khaloufa , an attractive lake about 8km east of Moulay Bousselham and part of the park, which offers good viewing of a variety of wintering wildfowl.
