The main gate to Lixus is in the green railings that border the Larache–Tangier road. Inside the railings to the left are the remains of the garum factories, where fish was salted and the prized paste produced, beloved in Rome (in a neat parallel, nearby Assilah still has an anchovy paste factory today). A gravel path leads up the hill from the gate past a number of minor ruins to the public baths and amphitheatre . The amphitheatre provides impressive views of the surrounding countryside and makes a wonderful place just to sit and relax.
Most mosaics from the site were removed and are now on display at the archaeology museum in Tetouan. The Grand Temple mosaics depicting Helios, Mars and Rhea, the three Graces, and Venus with Adonis are all there. The only remaining mosaic at Lixus is that of Oceanus (the Greek Sea God). Unfortunately, it’s been exposed both to the elements and to local vandalism, so is in rough shape.
Continue up the path to the main assembly of buildings, which straddle the crest of the hill. From here there are incredible views down over the Loukos Estuary and salt fields below.
The civic buildings, additional public baths and original city ramparts are here, while to the south is the striking citadel, a flurry of closely packed ruins standing stark against the sky. Although most of the antiquities are in an advanced state of decay, you should be able to make out the main temple and associated sanctuaries, an oratory, more public baths and the remains of the city walls.
