Eighteen kilometres from Boumalne brings you to extraordinary red rock formations that look like wax, melting right into the green carpet of the palmeraie below Aït Arbi . They’re known locally as Les Doigts de Singes (or ‘Monkey’s Fingers’) given their bizarre wind-worn shapes. A little further on is the more colourfully named ‘Valley of Human Bodies’, where famished travellers are said to have died of hunger and been turned to stone.