A trip to this spectacular subterranean red-marble hammam is almost eerily like rebirth. Re-entry to the world is eased with scented essential oils, liberal application of Anne Semonin products and a mood-lit lounge area. There's also a swimming pool. Treat yourself to a hammam, velvety skin scrub, rhassoul (mud scalp rub) and 90-minute perfumed-oil massage and emerge vowing to be a better person - or at least wear more sunscreen.