The 170-year-old kasbah that once belonged to the caïd (leader) of Agdz is now owned by his descendants. Stop at Casbah Caïd Ali’s reception next door for admission to the mudbrick structure, and explore a maze of rooms spread over three storeys. The play of light and shade in the ancient kasbah could obsess photographers for hours – but best of all are rooftop views over the neighbouring oasis.
