On the north side of the entrance to the old port stands the 10m-high fortified walls of the kasbah. Along with its kid brother, the ksibah (small fort) on the southern side, it was originally built by the Byzantines in the 6th century AD.
Today's kasbah , constructed in the Ottoman period (17th century), encloses a warren of tranquil residential streets. Inside the Kasbah Mosque, straight ahead as you walk through the kasbah 's only gate (situated on its western side), 30 stone columns - topped with an assortment of recycled ancient marble capitals - hold up 20 elegant stone cupolas. It was being renovated as we went to press.
From outside the eastern buttress, steps lead up to the ramparts. On top, with a view of the port, is a café, an evening favourite with local couples.
