This sprawling maze of ancient streets and alleyways is a national treasure. It's home to numerous cave-like souqs selling everything from shoes to shisha pipes, as well as lavishly tiled cafes, back streets full of artisans at work, and residential areas punctuated by grand, brightly painted doorways. Historic palaces, mosques and medersas are scattered throughout. An atmospheric time to explore is early morning, when all is serene apart from the cafes and fragrant breakfast stalls. The main drag at any other time can be unbearably hot, crowded and noisy, but the crush soon dissipates a few streets either side. You'll also find a number of ancient hammams (traditional bathhouses; ask your hotel for a recommendation and opening hours).
