The Big Five are back. In 2005, Rhino Fund Uganda opened this private 70-sq-km reserve, 170km northwest of Kampala, about 30 years after poachers shot the nation’s last wild rhino in Murchison in 1983. There are now 15 southern white rhinos roaming the savannah and wetland, nine of which were born in the wild in Uganda. The long-term goal is for these magnificent beasts is to reintroduce them in Murchison Falls and Kidepo Valley national parks.
Sadly, the situation is far more grim for the northern white rhino, which was indigenous to Uganda. It is now so close to extinction there’s little hope for its survival. There are only six confirmed members of the species left, all of them living in captivity.
A guide will lead you on an up-close encounter, either in your vehicle (a car is fine in the dry season, but you’ll need a 4WD in the wet) or theirs (US$25). Once you reach the rhinos you finish your visit on foot. While tracking rhinos on foot sounds a bit foolhardy, the fact that they’re in the company of armed anti-poacher rangers 24 hours, means they’re well and truly used to human presence.
Other animals living inside the 6ft-tall electric fence include leopard, hippos (which you won't see), crocodiles, bushbuck and oribis.
It’s also home to 350 species of bird, and birdwatching tours cost $25, with highlights including giant kingfisher, Ross's turaco and shoebills. The latter are best seen on early morning shoebill canoe trips ($30 per person) to an adjoining swamp, where you've got a very good chance of spotting them.
There’s occasionally volunteer opportunities, so enquire via the website.
All buses from Kampala heading to Gulu or Masindi pass nearby. Get off at little Nakitoma (USh13,000, three hours) and take a boda-boda 7km to the sanctuary gate for USh6000.
