Atop a super-steep grassy ridge, Beşbarmaq Dağ is a distinctive split crag whose mystical crown of phallic rocks attracts (mostly female) pilgrims. In around 20 minutes they climb a steep partially laddered trail from a ridgetop car park, kissing the stones and sometimes speaking in tongues en route hoping to score spiritual merit, good fortune and/or divine assistance in getting pregnant. Holy men lurk in rocky nooks ready to help out – but only with prayers.
The peak's looming 520m silhouette flips the bird at passing traffic high, high above Km88 of the Baku–Quba Hwy. At that point, Baku–Xaçmaz and Baku–Quba buses stop outside a stone mosque surrounded by food stalls. From the mosque there is a path to the top but it's a strenuous multi-hour climb. Instead you can drive to the ridgetop car park (around AZN20 return by taxi), which is around 6km up an unpaved track off the Siyəzən spur road.
