The brilliantly renovated round-towered Albanian church in pretty Kiş village has been lovingly converted into a very well-presented trilingual museum. It’s the best place anywhere to learn about mysterious Caucasian Albania, the Christian nation that once covered most of northern Azerbaijan. In fact, the church site goes back well beyond the Christian era and glass-covered grave excavations allow visitors to peer down on the bones of possibly Bronze Age skeletons.
To find the church, take the first lane to the right after Kiş’ main street becomes cobbled. The church is well signed, 800m up a double-back loop.