The shrine of this revered 14th-century Sufi saint is one of the biggest pilgrimage sites in the country and a fascinating place to visit. The complex contains a mosque (masjid) and the main tomb (mazar ), both of which are accessed via the steps in front of you as you walk through the main entrance (East Darga Gate). Shah Jalal’s sword and robes are preserved within the mosque, but aren’t on display. His tomb is covered with rich brocade, and at night the space around it is illuminated with candles. The atmosphere is quite magical. You can also walk around the hillside graveyard behind the shrine. Being buried near the saint is considered a great honour.
Non-Muslims are allowed to visit, although be sure to dress conservatively, and remove your shoes before climbing the steps. Women can enter the complex – there is even a special prayer hall for women here – but they are not usually allowed to enter the shrine itself because doing so would mean passing through part of the mosque.
The pond at the northern end of the complex is filled with sacred catfish that are fed by pilgrims and are, according to legend, metamorphosed black magicians of the Hindu raja Gour Govinda, who was defeated by Shah Jalal in 1303.
