The more central of the two bridges which span the Surma River, Kean Bridge, repaired after being damaged by Pakistani bombers during the Liberation War, is no architectural wonder, but crossing it is an experience in itself, not only because it’s unrelentingly chaotic but also because rickshaw-riders here are aided by rickshaw-pushers, who help push passengers up the bridge’s steep gradient in return for a few taka (the passengers are expected to pay) . The result is a seething mass of humanity, driving, cycling, walking and running its way in and out of the city.