The central building of Samye, the Ütse, comprises a unique synthesis of architectural styles. The ground and 1st floors were originally Tibetan in style, the 2nd floor was Chinese and the 3rd floor Khotanese. The corner parapets with green and gold dorje designs are also unique. There's a lot to see here, so budget a couple of hours.
Just to the left of the main entrance is a stele dating from 779. The elegant Tibetan script carved on its surface proclaims Buddhism as the state religion of Tibet by order of King Trisong Detsen. The entryways are flanked by two ancient stone lions and two elephants.
From here the entrance leads into the first of the ground-floor chambers: the assembly hall . As you enter the hall look for the mural of a white chicken that is said to have once saved the monastery by waking up its monks during a fire. You pass statues of Tangtong Gyelpo and the writers Buton Rinchen Drup and Longchen Rabjampa to the left, before a row of figures greet you straight ahead: the translator Vairocana, Shantarakshita, Guru Rinpoche, Trisong Detsen and Songtsen Gampo (with an extra head in his turban). The photo below the Guru Rinpoche statue is of the famous original statue (now destroyed), which was a likeness of the guru and allegedly had the power of speech.
To the rear of the assembly hall are steps leading into Samye’s most revered chapel, the Jowo Khang . You enter the inner chapel via three painted doors – an unusual feature. They symbolise the Three Doors of Liberation: those of emptiness, signlessness and wishlessness. A circumambulation of the inner chapel follows at this point (take a torch).
The centrepiece of the inner chapel is a 4m statue of Sakyamuni. Ten bodhisattvas and two protective deities line the heavy side walls of the chapel, which are decorated with ancient murals. Look also for the blackened Tantric mandalas on the ceiling.
As you leave the inner chapel look for a hole in the wooden panelling; steps lead up from inside the false wall to a secret room with statues of Vairocana, Trisong Detsen and Guru Rinpoche.
Back in the main assembly hall, on the right are two groups of three statues: the first group is associated with the Kadampa order (Dromtompa and Atisha); the second group is multidenominational and includes lamas from the Nyingmapa, Sakyapa and Gelugpa orders.
To the right of the hall is a gönkhang, reeking of chang, with statues of deities so terrible that they must be masked. A stuffed snake lurks over the blocked exit.
Before ascending to the 1st floor, take a look at the Chenresig Chapel , outside and to the left of the main assembly hall, which features a dramatic 1000-armed statue of Chenresig.
The structure of the 2nd floor echoes the inner chapel and houses an image of Guru Rinpoche in a semiwrathful aspect, flanked by Tsepame and Sakyamuni, with Shantarakshita and Trisong Detsen flanking them. Look up to see the Chinese-influenced bracketing on the beams. There is an inner kora around the hall.
Some of the murals outside this hall are very impressive; those on the southern wall depict Guru Rinpoche, while those to the left of the main door show the fifth Dalai Lama with the Mongol Gushri Khan and various ambassadors offering their respects. The Dalai Lama’s quarters are just behind you at the southeast corner of this floor, featuring fine murals depicting Samye.
The 3rd floor is a recent addition to the Ütse. It holds statues of four of the five Dhyani Buddhas, with a mandala of the fifth (Namse) on the ceiling.
Walk around the back to a ladder leading up to the 4th floor. This chapel holds the sacred core of the temple, as well as an image of Dukhor (Kalachakra), a Tantric deity, but it is generally locked. As you descend from the 3rd floor look for a rare mural of the 14th (current) Dalai Lama at the top of the stairwell.
As you head back downstairs, stop at the 1st-floor relic chamber. Among the sacred objects on display are the staff of Vairocana, the stone skull of Shantarakshita, a dorje made from meteorite and a turquoise amulet containing a lock of Guru Rinpoche's hair.
Back on the ground floor you can follow the prayer-wheel circuit of the Ütse, and look at the interesting murals showing the founding of the monastery. You can also ascend to the outer roof for views over the complex.
