It’s a treat for the traveller when a sight is both a pleasure to explore and of great artistic importance. Such is the Shalu Monastery which dates back to the 11th century. The monastery rose to prominence in the 14th century when its abbot, Büton Rinchen Drup, emerged as the foremost interpreter and compiler of Sanskrit Buddhist texts of the day. (A suborder, the Büton, formed around him.)
It also became a centre for training in skills such as trance walking and thumo (generating internal heat to survive in cold weather), feats made famous by the flying monks of Alexandra David-Neel’s book Magic and Mystery in Tibet.
In the abstract, the design of the monastery represents the paradise of Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara), a haven from all worldly suffering. In the concrete, Shalu is the only monastery in Tibet that combines Tibetan and Chinese styles in its design. Much of the original structure was destroyed by an earthquake in the 14th century and, as this was a time of Mongol patronage, many Han artisans were employed in the reconstruction. The green-tiled Chinese style roof, clearly visible as you approach, is one of the monastery’s most easily recognisable features.
What remained of the original 11th century Tibetan-style monastery was largely destroyed in the Cultural Revolution, but the Chinese-influenced inner Serkhang has survived reasonably well. If you enjoy looking at murals, Shalu has some fine ones from the 14th century that fuse Chinese, Mongol and Newari styles. Bring a powerful torch.
The southern chapel has particularly lovely Newari-style murals depicting the five Dhyani Buddhas. The main inner Serkhang has a black stone statue of Chenresig Kasrapani, the monastery’s holiest relic, as well as a vase from which pilgrims receive a blessing of sacred water. The northern Gusum Lhakhang , so named for its three doors, has more fine murals, including one in the left corner depicting the monastery’s founder. The inner kora path is currently blocked.
There are a couple of upper chapels, including the ancient-feeling Yum Lhakhang with its inner kora and other chapels with fine mandala murals. On the way out you can ask the ticket sellers to show you the sacred wood block which confers blessings on anyone who sees it. Monks sell block prints of the now-faded mandala.
From Shalu you can drive for ten minute's up to Ri-puk Hermitage , a former meditation centre and summertime residence for Shalu's monks built around a sacred spring and destroyed chörten. There are lovely views of the Shalu Valley. The three-day trek to Nartang Monastery starts from here.
Shalu Monastery is just 4km off the Shigatse-Gyantse road. En route you can stop off at the thousand-year-old Gyengong Lhakhang , a small chapel that actual predates Shalu. Don't miss the sacred mushroom growing on the ground-floor pillar and the upstairs stone basin where Sakya Pandita washed his head before receiving his gelong monastic vows. The poster of what looks like a Chinese pop star is actually of the Panchen Lama's daughter.
The monastery restaurant at the gates sells excellent dumpling soup.
