Also known as Shíchàhǎi (什刹海) but mostly just referred to collectively as ‘Hòuhǎi’, the Hòuhǎi Lakes are compromised of three lakes: Qiánhǎi (Front Lake), Hòuhǎi (Back Lake) and Xīhǎi (West Lake). Together they are one of the capital’s favourite outdoor spots, heaving with locals and out-of-towners in the summer especially, and providing great people-spotting action.
During the day, senior citizens meander along, use the exercise machines scattered along the lakeshore, fish, fly kites or just sit and chew the fat. At night, the area turns into one of the more popular nightlife areas, as the restaurants, bars and cafes that surround the lakes spring into life. This is a night out, Chinese style, so be prepared for neon lights galore, and plenty of karaoke being blasted out onto the surrounding lanes. Meanwhile, as the midday sun disappears, the lakes become a mass of pedalos circling round and round.
It’s great fun, and even if you find parts of the lakes too hectic (Silver Ingot Bridge is a major bottleneck), it's easy enough to escape the crowds, by exploring the many hútòng that run both east and west of the lakes, or to just venture further northwest towards the quieter Xīhǎi Lake. It’s particularly good to cycle around and numerous places by the lakeshores hire out bikes by the hour (¥10 per hour, ¥200 deposit). There are many spots to rent pedalos too (¥80 per hour, ¥300 deposit), if you want to take to the water. Some locals swim in the lakes, even in midwinter!
The lakes look majestic in winter, when they freeze over and become the best place in Běijīng to ice skate (usually for around six weeks in January and February. Qiánhǎi Lake is most popular, although some people skate on Hòuhǎi Lake too; local vendors set themselves up with all the gear you need. You have to pay to enter the ice-skating area (weekday/weekend & evenings ¥15/¥20). If you want to rent ice skates and the like, you also have to buy a rental swipe card from kiosks by the entrance gates. The card will have a ¥200 deposit on it. You then get back any money you don't use. Skates (¥20 per day), chair sleds (¥20 per day), ice bikes ¥40 per hour) and even ice bumper cars (¥20 per 10 minutes) can all be rented. There is also a giant ice slide (¥5 per go).
