Xīntiāndì and Tiánzǐfáng are based on a similar idea – an entertainment complex housed within a warren of traditional lòngtáng (弄堂; alleyways) – but when it comes to genuine charm and vibrancy, Tiánzǐfáng is the one that delivers. This community of design studios, wi-fi cafes and boutiques is the perfect antidote to Shànghǎi's oversized malls and intimidating skyscrapers. With some families still residing in neighbouring buildings, a community mood survives.
There are three main north–south lanes (Nos 210, 248, 274) criss-crossed by irregular east–west alleyways, which makes exploration slightly disorienting and fun. Among the art galleries is Beaugeste, a forward-thinking photography gallery (only open at the weekends, by appointment at other times).The real activity is shopping, and the recent explosion of creative start-ups makes for some interesting finds, from ethnic embroidery and hand-wrapped pu-erh teas to retro communist dinnerware. Elsewhere, a growing band of cool cafes, restaurants and bars, such as Bell Bar, can sort out meals and drinks and take the weight off your feet.
