This baby was built in 1835 with coral and volcanic rocks from the seabed in a neo-Gothic style, and looks quite formidable despite its modest size – who would have known that pinnacles and pointed windows go so well with rough-textured and discoloured rocks? As it looms into view behind hawkers and tour vans, your mouth drops a little.
The church was constructed by French missionaries for followers who had fled here to escape ethnic conflict in Guǎngdōng. It was damaged during the Cultural Revolution and rebuilt with donations from the wife of former premier Zhou Enlai, and a Catholic priest in Hong Kong. The lovely garden sports old jackfruit trees and a 125-year-old mango tree. Outside the church are hawkers selling noodles and delicious coconut buns (椰子包; yēzi bāo; ¥2).