Shegar is dominated by its Crystal Fort, one of Tibet's most fantastical, whose crumbling defensive walls snake up the side of an impossibly steep mountain that looms over town; picture Mt Crumpit in The Grinch Who Stole Christmas . Trails allow you to clamber up from the monastery entrance to the ruined buildings, from where you can see Mt Everest in the distance. Morning light is best for taking photographs.
