The Terracotta Army isn’t just Xī’ān’s premier site, but one of the most famous archaeological finds in the world. This subterranean life-size army of thousands has silently stood guard over the soul of China’s first unifier for more than two millennia. Either Qin Shi Huang was terrified of the vanquished spirits awaiting him in the afterlife, or, as most archaeologists believe, he expected his rule to continue in death as it had in life – whatever the case, the guardians of his tomb today offer some of the greatest insights we have into the world of ancient China.
The discovery of the army of warriors was entirely fortuitous. In 1974, peasants drilling a well uncovered an underground vault that eventually yielded thousands of terracotta soldiers and horses in battle formation. Throughout the years the site became so famous that many of its unusual attributes are now well known, in particular the fact that no two soldier’s faces are alike.
The on-site theatre gives a useful primer on how the figures were sculpted. You could also employ a guide (¥150) or try the audio-guide (¥40, plus ¥200 deposit), although the latter is somewhat useless, being difficult to understand and not very compelling. Then visit the site in reverse, which enables you to build up to the most impressive pit for a fitting finale.
Start with the smallest pit, Pit 3 , containing 72 warriors and horses, which is believed to be the army headquarters due to the number of high-ranking officers unearthed here. It’s interesting to note that the northern room would have been used to make sacrificial offerings before battle. In the next pit, Pit 2 , containing around 1300 warriors and horses, you get to examine five of the soldiers up close: a kneeling archer, a standing archer, a cavalryman and his horse, a mid-ranking officer and a general. The level of detail is extraordinary: the expressions, hairstyles, armour and even the tread on the footwear are all unique.
The largest pit, Pit 1 , is the most imposing. Housed in a building the size of an aircraft hangar, it is believed to contain 6000 warriors (only 2000 are on display) and horses, all facing east and ready for battle. The vanguard of three rows of archers (both crossbow and longbow) is followed by the main force of soldiers, who originally held spears, swords, dagger-axes and other long-shaft weapons. The infantry were accompanied by 35 chariots, though these, made of wood, have long since disintegrated.
Almost as extraordinary as the soldiers is a pair of bronze chariots and horses unearthed just 20m west of the Tomb of Qin Shi Huang. These are now on display, together with some of the original weaponry and a mid-ranking officer you can see up close in the open air, in a small museum to the right upon entering the main entrance.
The Army of Terracotta Warriors is easily reached by public bus. From Xī’ān Train Station’s eastern car park, take one of the air-conditioned green or blue, clearly English-labelled ‘Terracotta Warriors’ buses (¥8, one hour, every 10 minutes) to the last stop, which travels via Huáqīng Hot Springs and the Tomb of Qin Shi Huang. The car park for all vehicles is a 15-minute walk through souvenir stalls from the Terracotta Warriors site, with the ticket kiosk near the parking lot. Electric carts do the run for ¥5. If you want to eat here, go for the restaurants across from the car park. To get back to Xī’ān, buses leave from the parking lot.
