The magnificent Yàdīng Nature Reserve, 140km south of Dàochéng, centres around three sacred snow-capped mountains, a holy trinity encircled by forested valleys, crystal clear rivers and glacier-fed lakes. These are, quite simply, some of the most stunning landscapes you'll ever see. There are opportunities to hike, ride and camp here.
Locals have worshipped these mountains for more than 800 years. The three peaks – Chenresig (compassion), Chana Dorje (power) and Jampelyang (wisdom) – represent bodhisattvas in Tibetan Buddhism. Even for non-believers, walking the 35km kora (holy hike, 转山) around the highest peak, Chenresig (仙乃日, Xiānnǎirì), which tops out at 6032m, can be a hugely meaningful experience.
The clockwise circuit around Chenresig begins at Lóngtóng Bà (龙同坝) and takes at least 12 hours of serious hiking. To avoid one very long day, many use the campsites located about two-thirds round, near Tiānpíng Chēng (天平称). You have to bring all your own gear and supplies. (Though you'll pass locals living in simple stone huts, under park rules they are not supposed to take you in.) Remember to keep the mountain on your right, and to always take the right-hand turn when there’s a choice of paths. There is a longer, four-day, 110km hike that adds a circuit around 5958m Chana Dorje (夏郎多吉; Xiàláng Duōjí), which begins and ends at the same place as the kora .
These hiking trails are all around 4000m above sea level, so acclimatise properly and pack for a serious expedition before you set off. Guides are available for hire at Lóngtóng Bà.
If you don’t have the time (or energy) for a full circuit, there are buses and electric carts to shorter hikes. Take the shuttle bus from the ticket office into the park, to the small settlement of Lóngtóng Bà . From here hike 3km to the 800-year-old Chonggu Monastery (t古寺, Chōnggǔ Sì), where you can pick up electric carts (one-way/return ¥50/80; 6km, 20 minutes) into the Luòróng Grassland (洛绒牛场, Luòróng Niúchǎng), which offers incredible views of the trinity and is as far as most tourists go.
It's worth continuing another 5km (three hours) to Milk Lake (牛奶海; Níunǎi Hǎi) and stunning Five-Colour Lake (五色海; Wǔsè Hǎi). You can also ride guided mules (one-way/return ¥200/¥300) for this segment, but keep in mind, even on four legs, the roundtrip journey takes 5½ hours on a steep, rocky trail. Riders must dismount multiple times to scramble alongside their ride for about a kilometre.
There are guesthouses and places to eat in Yàdīng village (亚丁村) and Lóngtóng Bà. To get an early start on the kora , try Drolma's Youth Hostel in Yàdīng village, which has a friendly backpacker vibe and the most pleasant rooms around. From the shuttle bus stop, take a few steps back up the hill and then follow the small road to the last Tibetan house on the right.
The best times to visit the reserve are May to June and September to early October.
Take a shared minibus (per person ¥50, 2½ hours) from Dàochéng to the small town of Rìwǎ (日瓦), where you buy tickets for the reserve. The ticket includes a mandatory ¥120 shuttle-bus fee, so take the park shuttle bus the last 32km into the park; it stops first in Yàdīng village and then 3km later at Lóngtóng Bà.
To get back to Dàochéng, catch the shuttle back to Rìwǎ, and then a minibus (¥50, 10am, 2pm, 5pm) back to Dàochéng.
