As renovation work continues at Samye, the original ling (royal) chapels – lesser, outlying chapels that surround the Ütse – are slowly being restored. Wander around and see which are open. Following is a clockwise tour of the major chapels open at the time of research.
The square in front of the Ütse has some interesting elements, including a gönkhang just inside the eastern gate. The ruined seven-storey geku (tower) that used to display festival thangkas has been rebuilt in recent years.
From the east gate (gegyu shar) follow the prayer wheels south to the Tsengmang Ling , once the monastery printing press, and look for the sacred stone in the centre of the chapel.
If you pass the yellow-walled residential college of the Shetekhang between 11am and noon, or between 5.30pm and 7pm, listen for the sounds of debating in the attached courtyard.
The restored Aryapalo Ling was Samye’s first building and has a lovely ancient feel. The statue of Arya Lokeshvara is similar to one seen in the Potala Palace. A small door allows pilgrims to inch around the base of the protector Tamdrin.
The Drayur Gyagar Ling was originally the centre for the translation of texts, as depicted on the wall murals. There's an inner kora here. The main statue on the upper floor is of Sakyamuni, flanked by his Indian and Chinese translators.
The Jampa Ling on the west side is where Samye’s Great Debate was held. On the right as you go in, look out for the mural depicting the original design of Samye with zigzagging walls. There is an unusual semicircular inner kora here that is decorated with images of Jampa. Just south of here is a chörten that pilgrims circumambulate and a sacred tree to which pilgrims tie stones. The triple Mani Lhakhang to the north has lovely murals.
The green-roofed, Chinese-style Jangchub Semkye Ling to the east houses a host of bodhisattvas around a statue of Marmedze on a lotus plinth, with a 3-D wooden mandala to the side. Look for the sacred stone to the left. Take a torch to see the Central Asian-style murals.
East of here is the Kordzo Pehar Ling , the home of the oracle Pehar until he moved to Nechung Monastery outside Lhasa. It's currently under renovation. Pilgrims stick passport photos of themselves onto the locked entrance of the ground-floor chapel, which is flanked by two ancient-looking leather bags. The upstairs portico has some old cane helmets. The inner chapel reeks of alcohol, hooks hang from the ceiling and demons’ hands reach out from their cases, as if trying to grab you.
It is also possible to enter the four reconstructed concrete chörtens (white, red, green and black), though there is little of interest inside.
If you exit the southern gate and walk for 10 minutes you get to the Khamsum Sankhung Ling , a smaller version of the Utse which once functioned as Samye's debating centre. It's currently closed but there are plans to reopen it soon.
