This significant although small monastery is jam-packed with ancient relics and hidden treasures. It’s only 30 minutes drive southwest of Lhasa and is worth a stop for those interested in Tibetan Buddhism.
As you take the Lhasa–Tsetang road out of Lhasa, you’ll pass a blue rock carving of Sakyamuni Buddha at the base of a cliff about 11km southwest of town (it’s easily missed coming from the south). Nyetang village and the monastery are about 6km further on, between kilometre markers 4662 and 4663.
Drölma Lhakhang is associated with the Bengali scholar Atisha (982–1054). Atisha came to Tibet at the age of 53 at the invitation of the king of the Guge kingdom in western Tibet and his teachings were instrumental in the so-called second diffusion of Buddhism in the 11th century. Drölma Lhakhang was established at this time by one of Atisha’s foremost disciples, Drömtonpa, who also founded the Kadampa order, to which the monastery belongs. It was here at Netang that Atisha died aged 72.
The 11th-century monastery was spared desecration by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution after a direct request from Bangladesh (which now encompasses Atisha’s homeland). Apparently, Chinese premier Zhou Enlai intervened on its behalf.
The first chapel to the left is a gönkhang, decorated with severed stags’ heads and arrow holders. As you enter and exit the main monastery building look for the two ancient guardian deities, which may even date back to the 11th-century founding of the monastery. An inner kora surrounds the main chapels.
From the entry, pass into the first chapel, the Namgyel Lhakhang, which contains a number of chörtens. The black-metal Kadampa-style chörten to the right reputedly holds the staff of Atisha and the skull of Naropa, Atisha’s teacher. Statuary includes Atisha and the eight medicine buddhas.
The eponymous middle Drölma Lhakhang houses a number of relics associated with Atisha. The statues at the top include an 11th-century statue of Jowo Sakyamuni and statues of the 13th Dalai Lama, Green Tara, and Serlingpa (right, with a red hat), another teacher of Atisha. The lower central statue behind the grill is an image of Jampa that was reputedly saved from Mongol destruction when it shouted ‘Ouch!’. There are also 21 statues of Drölma, after whom the monastery and the chapel are named.
The final Tsepame Lhakhang has ori- ginal statues of Tsepame, cast with the ashes of Atisha, flanked by Marmedze (Dipamkara), the Past Buddha, Jampa (the Future Buddha) and the eight bodhisattvas. The small central statue of Atisha in a glass case is backed by his original clay throne. As you leave the chapel, look out for two sunken white chörtens, which hold Atisha’s robes.
Upstairs is the throne room and living room of the Dalai Lamas, and to the right a library.
