Snugly ensconced in the pretty Léigōng Hills, Xījiāng is thought to be the largest Miao village (its full name in Chinese is 西江千户苗寨; Xījiāng Qiānhù Miáozhài – Xījiāng 1000-Household Miao Village) and is famous for its embroidery and silver ornaments (the Miao believe that silver can dispel evil spirits). Now firmly embedded on the tourist trail, commercialisation has cheapened its allure but it still flings together a pastoral picture of paddies, wooden diàojiǎolóu (traditional handcrafted houses), water buffalo and mists.
From the ticket office, buses (¥5) run to the village itself. The tourist infrastructure runs to a performance square, English signposts, souvenir shops, an ATM taking foreign cards (sometimes) and even a few cafes with wi-fi. Head to the western side of the village for a more authentic experience. Come evening, when the day trippers have disappeared, the village reverts to a more traditional pace of life.
When the sun obliges, Xījiāng is lovely. Head away from the village on paths that weave through rice paddies, sidestepping farmers and water buffalo, and recharge your soul in the surrounding hills. A lovely trek is the 50-minute hike past terraced fields and rice paddies over the hills to Kāijué Miao Village (开觉苗寨; Kāijué Miáozhài) and Kāijué Waterfall (开觉瀑布; Kāijué Pùbù) a bit further beyond.
There’s also a three-day trek from Xījiāng to Páiyáng (排羊), a Miao village north of Xījiāng. This trail winds its way through some remote minority villages and lush scenery. You will probably find accommodation with locals en route, but you shouldn’t expect it so come prepared to sleep under the stars. Also ask about the largely uphill 27km trek from Xījiāng to gorgeous Léigōngpíng through a lushly green and forested landscape; you can continue on to Léishān from Léigōngpíng.
Many families in Xījiāng offer rooms from ¥50 and there are an increasing number of guesthouses. The Miao Family Guesthouse has clean, comfortable rooms with hot water. It's across the river on the eastern side of the village. Quite a hefty walk to the top of the village is rewarded with excellent views from the undisturbed Gǔzàngtóujiā , where clean and fresh wooden rooms occupy a traditional building opposite the historic Gǔzángtáng, an ancestral home which houses drums used in festivals. It’s run by an old man who speaks nary a word of English.
From Kǎilǐ, buses run hourly between 8.40am and 5.40pm. There are hourly buses back to Kǎilǐ 8.30am to 5.30am. Alternatively, heading south and east towards Guǎngxī, there are regular buses to Léishān (¥11, 1½ hours, 6.30am to 5.40pm), from where you can head south towards Róngjiāng (榕江). There are also two buses a day to Guìyáng's East Bus Station (¥80, four hours, 9am and 3pm).
