The cliff sides are riddled with niches and statues carved principally during the Northern Wei and Zhou dynasties (AD 386–581), with later additions. Vertigo-inducing catwalks and steep spiral stairways cling to the cliff face, affording close-ups of the art. Within the hard-to-miss Sui-dynasty trinity of Buddha and bodhisattvas is the largest statue on the mountain: the cave’s central effigy of Buddha tops out at 15.7m. When the statue was restored three decades ago, a handwritten copy of the Sutra of Golden Light was discovered within the Buddha’s fan.
It’s not certain just how the artists managed to clamber so high; one theory is that they created piles from blocks of wood reaching to the top of the mountain before moving down, gradually removing them as they descended.
A considerable amount of pigment still clings to many of the statues – a lot of which are actually made of clay rather than hewn from rock – although you frequently have to climb up steps to peer at them through tight mesh grills. Also in many caves there is no natural illumination, so the figures of the Bodhisattvas sit hunched in the gloom or the frescoes are indiscernible. Much, though, is clearly visible and most of the more impressive sculptures decorate the upper walkways, especially at cave 4. A number of the statues were slightly damaged by the Sìchuān earthquake of 2008 but have been repaired.
The entire undertaking is rounded off with a crescent of hawker stalls and a row of food stalls selling delicious spicy cold noodle dishes as well as teas and soft drinks.
An English-speaking guide charges ¥70 for the day. It’s possible to view normally closed caves (eg cave 133) for an extra fee of ¥500 per group.
The admission ticket includes entry to Ruìyìng Monastery (瑞应寺; Ruìyìng Sì), at the base of the mountain, which acts as a small museum of selected statues. Across the lot from the monastery is the start of a trail to a botanic garden (zhíwùyuán; admission free with ticket), which allows for a shortcut back to the entrance gate through the forest.
You can also climb Xiāngjí Shān (香积山). For the trailhead, head back towards the food stall area you passed on the way in and look for a sign down a side road to the left.
