In Mìyún County (密云县, Mìyún Xiàn) near the far-flung town of Gǔběikǒu (古北口) near the Héběi border, the stirring remains at Sīmǎtái make for an exhilarating Great Wall experience. Built during the reign of Ming-dynasty emperor Hongwu, the 19km stretch is characterised by watchtowers, steep plunges and scrambling ascents. This rugged section of wall can be heart-thumpingly steep and the scenery is dramatic. Following the crowds to the wall, you have a choice: either head west for the hike (four hours one way) to Jīnshānlǐng or walk east as far as you can.
The hike to Jīnshānlǐng makes the long journey out here worth it, but you will need to set off early in the morning; you can do the hike in either direction, but it’s usually more convenient transport-wise to return to Běijīng from Sīmǎtái. The Sīmǎtái section destined for Jīnshānlǐng consists of 18 watchtowers ranging north of the old vestiges of wall dating to the Northern Qi.
Heading east, after around the twelfth watchtower (called Jiāngjūn Lóu or General Watchtower) things start getting rather precarious and the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth watchtowers (Cat’s Eye Watchtower, Fairy Watchtower and Capital View Watchtower) were largely inaccessible or tricky to get to and have in recent years been closed altogether. A few slopes have 70-degree inclines and you need both hands free, so bring a day-pack to hold your camera and other essentials. One narrow section of footpath has a 500m drop, so it’s no place for acrophobics. The cable car saves time and could be an alternative to a sprained ankle.
Take strong shoes with a good grip. Sīmǎtái has some unusual features, such as ‘obstacle-walls’ – walls within walls used for defending against enemies who had already scaled the Great Wall. Small cannons have been discovered in this area, as well as evidence of rocket-type weapons, such as flying knives and flying swords.
To get there, take bus 980 from Běijīng's Dōngzhímén Long-Distance Bus Station to Mìyún West Bridge and change to a local bus or taxi to Sīmǎtái.
