The 6282m peak of Machen Kangri, or Mt Amnye Machen, is Amdo’s most sacred mountain – it’s eastern Tibet’s equivalent to Mt Kailash in western Tibet. Tibetan pilgrims travel for weeks to circumambulate the peak, believing it to be home to the protector deity Machen Pomra. The circuit’s sacred geography and wild mountain scenery make it a fantastic, though adventurous, trekking destination.
The full circuit takes around 11 days (including transport to/from Xīníng), though tourists often limit themselves to a half circuit. Several monasteries lie alongside the route.
With almost all of the route above 4000m, and the highest pass hitting 4600m, it’s essential to acclimatise before setting off, preferably by spending a night or two at nearby Mǎqìn (玛沁, Tawo; 3760m). You can make a good excursion 70km north of town to Rabgya Gompa (拉加寺, Lājiā Sì), an important branch of Tibet’s Sera Monastery. The best months to trek are May to October, though be prepared for snow early and late in the season.
Since local public transport is almost non-existent, most trekkers go on an organised tour. Expect to pay around US$140 per person per day, all-inclusive.
If you do want to try venturying out on your own, take the bus to Huāshíxiá (花石峡) and then hitch or hire a shared minivan (¥300 to ¥400 per person) to Xiàdàwǔ (下大吾). In Xiàdàwǔ the starting point for the kora (holy hike) path is at Guru Gompa (格日寺, Gērì Sì), and from here follow the road east. After three days the road peters out near Xuěshān (雪山) from where you can hitch a ride to Mǎqìn. If you intend to continue past Xuěshān you’ll need to ask a local to show you the kora path. In Xiàdàwǔ, a guide costs ¥120 to ¥150 per day, and it’s about the same price for a packhorse or yak.
