Famed throughout China for being one of the great ancient battlefields, this 700-year-old fortress is surrounded by rushing rivers on three sides and perched on top of a 300m-tall rocky mountain. This was the last stand of the Southern Song dynasty and famously, in the 13th century, the fortress withstood the mighty Mongol armies for an incredible 36 years, during which time an estimated 200 battles were fought here.
The fortress was protected by an 8km-long, 30m-tall double wall, punctuated with eight gate towers. Much of the outer wall and all the main gates remain today; some partly restored, others crumbling away. There is little here in terms of facilities (bring a picnic) but it’s a fascinating and peaceful place to walk around; narrow stone pathways lead you through the forest, past Buddhist rock carvings, gravestones, bamboo groves, ponds, caves, the wall and its gateways and some fabulous lookout points. Sights not to miss include the serene, 11m-long, 1000-year-old Sleeping Buddha (卧佛; Wòfó), cut into the overhang of a cliff, Hùguó Temple (护国寺; Hùguó Sì), dating from the Tang dynasty, although largely rebuilt, and the Imperial Cave (黄洞; Huángdòng), an ancient drainage passage with steps leading down to it, clinging to the outside of the fort wall.
To reach the fortress, take a bus from Chóngqìng to Héchuān. Alternatively, numerous trains run from Chóngqìng North train station (¥12.50, 40 minutes) to Héchuān. There are no direct buses to the fortress. A taxi from the train station should be ¥25; from the bus station ¥10. The last bus back to Chóngqìng from Héchuān is at 6pm.
