The citadel of Tsaparang, 18km west of Zanda, has been gracefully falling into ruin ever since its slide from prominence in the 17th century. The ruins seem to grow organically out of the hills in tiers and are crowned by a red Summer Palace atop a yellow cockscomb-like outcrop. It’s a photogenically surreal landscape that resembles a giant termites’ nest.
Tsaparang's early Tantric-inspired murals are of particular interest to experts on early Buddhist art. Even without the magnificent art, it’s worth the trip for the views over the Sutlej Valley and to explore the twisting paths and secret tunnels that worm their way through the fortress.
The ruins climb up the ridge through three distinct areas. At the bottom of the hill is the monastic area with the four best-preserved buildings and their murals. From there the trail to the top climbs through former residential quarters, where monks’ cells were tunnelled into the clay hillside. Finally, the route burrows straight into the hillside through a tunnel before emerging in the ruins of the palace citadel at the very top of the hill. The vast, rough-hewn landscape of the Sutlej Valley that spreads out before you is both terrifying and sublime: you can’t take your eyes off its beauty, but you know you wouldn’t last a day alone in it.
Early morning and evening (particularly around 8pm) offers the best light. No photography is allowed inside the chapels and guardians will watch you like a hawk. Bring a strong torch, snacks and water, and expect to spend at least half a day exploring the ruins.
