Visiting historic Bāshā is like stepping back in time to the Tang or Song eras. The local men wear period clothes with daggers secured to their belts and, when not farming, hunt with antique rifles. Meanwhile, the women parade in full Miao rig with their hair twisted in a curl on top of their heads.
Quite why Bāshā is stuck in a timewarp is a mystery, as it’s only 7.5km from very modern Cóngjiāng (从江). Not even the locals can explain why they’ve retained their ancient customs so well. Nor is Bāshā undiscovered. A collection of six hamlets that sprawls across a beautiful valley, Chinese–English signs point the way to the various places of interest. It’s best seen during a festival, even if that means more visitors, because most of the year the men are out in the fields during the day. But at any time, the surrounding countryside is superb. You might also be able to arrange a hunting trip with the men.
You can find very rudimentary rooms for ¥30. By far the nicest place to stay is the family-run Gǔfēngzhài Qīngnián Lǚguǎn . Walk down the path to the left of the village square to find it. Alternatively, you can spend the night in Cóngjiāng. The Zhèng Péng Bīnguǎn has spacious, clean rooms (but squat toilets) and wi-fi and is across the road from the bus station.
A few orange and grey minibuses run between Cóngjiāng and Bāshā early in the morning and late in the afternoon (¥5). Otherwise, you'll have to take a taxi (it’s a very steep walk up to the village). The return trip should cost ¥60; you'll need the driver to wait for you.
