Near the shores of Yamdrok-tso, about 10km east of Nangartse, Samding Monastery is situated on a ridge that separates two smaller lakes that are encircled by the northern and southern arms of Yamdrok-tso. It's a great detour off the southern Friendship Hwy and a nice place to overnight, offering good hikes and excellent views of Dumo-tso and the snowcapped mountains to the south.
Samding is noted for the unusual fact that it is traditionally headed by a female incarnate lama named Dorje Phagmo (Diamond Sow). When the Mongolian armies invaded Samding in 1716, Dorje Phagmo changed her nuns into pigs to help them escape. Her current incarnation works for the government in Lhasa.
It’s possible to visit the main dukhang (assembly hall), to the right of the courtyard, which is dominated by a statue of Sakyamuni (Sakya Thukpa). There are also photos, a statue and a footprint of the ninth Dorje Phagmo here, plus an eerie protector chapel and several chapels upstairs. The Sangok Phodrang to the left has a library, a central chörten and a fine thangka depicting five manifestations of Jampelyang (Manjushri). There are 30 monks in residence.
For dramatic views over the surrounding three lakes of Gongmo-tso, Drumo-tso and Yamdrok-tso, hike for 45 minutes up to the ridge-top cairns behind the monastery. The snowcapped Himalayan giants to the south are Kula Kangri (7538m) and Gangkhar Phuensum (7570m), both bordering Bhutan.
