A popular subject of paintings for Chinese art students, this ancient river village began as a way-station on the southern Silk Road more than 2000 years ago. Many of the wooden buildings have been rebuilt, but some date to the Ming and Qing dynasties and locals still live amongst the ever-multiplying trinket shops.
The town’s most venerable inhabitants are its banyan trees, a dozen of which are more than 1000 years old. The most charming of old stone passageways, Fúhuì Street Water Gate , leads down to the river where you can lounge on a bamboo chair and sip tea (¥20 to ¥50). Cross the river and you can wander away into the decidedly untouristy surrounding farmland and small tea plantations.
Commercialism threatens to overwhelm the charm but enough real life remains to make this a pleasant day trip from Chéngdū, especially in warm months, when there's fun to be had in the water. If you want to linger, there are comfortable lodgings (客栈, kèzhàn, and 住宿, zhùsù) along both riverbanks. Gǔbù Kèzhàn has bright, little rooms with river views; turn left when you reach the river.
Buses to Pínglè usually stop first at the small town of Qiónglái (邛崃), about 15 minutes before Pínglè. Don’t get off here by mistake. Once in Pínglè, walk out of the bus station and turn right for the river. Buses leave for Chéngdū’s Xīnnánmén bus station from 8.10am to 6.20pm, about every half hour to hour (¥24, 2 hours).
