An absolute dream for travellers wanting to experience Shānxī’s cave houses (窑洞; yáodòng ), this remote, supremely peaceful 550-year-old village, hugging a hillside with terraces of crops running up it, has hundreds of cave dwellings scaling nine storeys. Once home to more than 600 families, most surnamed Li, today’s population is around 45.
Almost all inhabitants are elderly: the local school, with caves for classrooms, no longer operates. Some of the stone paths and stairways that twist up the hill date from Ming times; note the rings on some walls that horses were tied to. These days, the village is popular with artists who have come to walk in the footsteps of the late Chinese painter Wu Guanzhong, a pioneer in modern Chinese painting who found inspiration here. The surrounding countryside offers ample opportunities for hikes and there are now several homestays (¥60 including meals) offering basic accommodation for those who wish to get away from it all. People here speak Jin, although most understand Mandarin.
To get here, cross the bridge by Qìkǒu’s bus stop and follow the river for about 30 minutes until you see a blue sign indicating Lǐjiāshān. Walk on for about 100m and then take the road up the hill for another 30 minutes and you’ll reach the old village. Local cars do a return run for ¥50 to ¥60. If you're planning on staying, you'll need to negotiate a rate or walk out.
