No visit to Kashgar is complete without a trip to the Livestock Market, which takes place once a week on Sunday. The day begins with Uighur farmers and herders trekking into the city from nearby villages. By lunchtime just about every sellable sheep, camel, horse, cow and donkey within 50km has been squeezed through the bazaar gates. It’s dusty, smelly and crowded, and most people find it wonderful, though the treatment of the animals often leaves something to be desired.
Trading at the market is swift and boisterous between the old traders; animals are carefully inspected and haggling is done with finger motions. Keep an ear out for the phrase ‘Bosh-bosh! ’ (‘Coming through!’) or you risk being ploughed over by a cartload of fat-tailed sheep.
In 2012 the market relocated to the northeastern suburbs. A taxi here costs ¥20 to ¥25; it’s a good idea to pay it to wait for your return. Alternatively take bus No 23 from the Sunday Bazaar. Tour buses usually arrive in the morning, so consider an early afternoon visit. A few simple stalls offer hot samsas if you get peckish.
If you miss the Sunday Market, don’t despair: there are plenty of other markets in Xīnjiāng to visit. Try the Sunday market in Hotan or Kuqa, the Monday market in Upal or the Tuesday market in Charbagh.
