This 18th-century complex of courtyards at the Qiao Family Courtyard is one of the finest remaining examples of a traditional private residence in northern China. Once home to a celebrated merchant, it’s an austere maze of doorways and courtyards that lead onto seemingly endless rooms (there are over 300 of them). The complex is famous in China for being where Zhang Yimou’s lush fifth-generation tragedy Raise the Red Lantern was filmed.
Appropriately, there are red lanterns hanging everywhere, but there are also many fascinating exhibits of Qing-era furniture and clothes, as well as Shānxī opera costumes and props. Recently installed English signage helps understand Northern Chinese traditions and rites better.
The site is is extremely popular with domestic tour groups so get here as early as you can. While the entrance is glossed up, and souvenir and food stalls surround the compound, the residence is still big enough to escape the crowds; you can step through one of the many doorways and they magically disperse.
To get here, catch any bus going to Qíxiàn (祁县; ¥23, 1½ hours) from Tàiyuán’s Jiànnán bus station. Tell the driver where you’re headed and they’ll drop you at the main gate. You can also visit from Píngyáo (¥26, 45 minutes, every 30 minutes).
