The Western Xia Tombs, which look like giant beehives, are Níngxià’s most famous sight. The first tombs were built a millennium ago by Li Yuanhao, the founder of the Western Xia dynasty. There are nine imperial tombs, plus 200 lesser tombs, in an area of 50 sq km – there are electric carts if you’re not up for walking. The one you’ll see is Li Yuanhao’s, a 23m-tall tomb originally constructed as an octagonal seven-storey wooden pagoda. All that remains is the large earthen core. Permits, usually organised through local tour operators, are required to visit other tombs in the area.
The examples of Buddhist art in the good site museum (8am-5.30pm) offer a rare glimpse into the ephemeral Western Xia culture, and point to clear artistic influences from neighbouring Tibet and Central Asia. There are also many fascinating artefacts excavated from Li Yuanhao’s tomb.
The tombs are 33km west of Yínchuān. A return taxi costs around ¥150 (including waiting time). From the South Gate, you could take bus 2 to its terminus in Xīxià Qū and then take a cheaper taxi (¥25 each way) from there. Yínchuān’s southern bus terminal has a bus (¥8, 20 minutes, every two hours) to the tombs. The site is also on the road towards Bayanhot, if you are headed that way.