One of the great monasteries of the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Tibetan Buddhism, Kumbum Monastery was built in 1577 on hallowed ground – the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, founder of the sect.
It’s of enormous historical significance, and hundreds of monks still live here but, perhaps because it’s such a big tourist draw for this part of Qīnghǎi, the atmosphere can at times feel a bit overrun. The artwork and architecture, however, remain impressive.
Nine temples are open, each with its own characteristics. The most important is the Grand Hall of Golden Tiles (大金瓦殿, Dàjīnwǎ Diàn), where an 11m-high chörten marks the spot of Tsongkhapa’s birth. You’ll see pilgrims walking circuits of the building and prostrating outside the entrance. Also worth seeking out is the Yak Butter Scripture Temple (酥油画馆, Sūyóuhuà Guǎn) which houses sculptures of human figures, animals and landscapes carved out of yak butter.
Kumbum is located 27km from Xīníng in the town of Huángzhōng. Buses (¥11, 45 minutes) leave every six minutes from Xinning Road Passenger Transport Terminal , starting at 7am. Get off at the last stop and walk up the hill to the monastery. The last bus back is at 7pm.
