Travellers sick of dusty market towns and only seeing gorgeous scenery through bus windows will enjoy two days exploring the grasslands around one of Gānzī prefecture’s largest and most venerated monasteries.
Darjay Gompa is 30km west of Gānzī on the road to Dégé. A short walk from the Darjay Gompa is the small temple of Talam Khang , with snowcapped mountains to one side, and rolling grasslands and a river to the other. Three friendly monks welcome guests to share their mudbrick and wood-framed living quarters. Beds are carpeted benches, and rooms are similarly rustic and full of character. The monks cook up vegetarian noodle dishes (¥10 to ¥15) upon request.
To get to the temple from Darjay Gompa, exit from the monastery's back gate and walk about 15 minutes along the dirt road. Walk towards the white stupa farthest on the left, keeping the grassland villages on your right. You'll see the temple as you come over the hill.
It costs around ¥40 to get here from Gānzī in a shared minivan, at least ¥60 in a private taxi. Hitching is another option.
