Stranded in splendid isolation amid fields and rice paddies near the Húnán border, Lónglǐ is a former garrison town populated by the descendants of Han soldiers sent to protect the empire from the pesky Miao. One of the province’s ‘eco-museums’ (read, real-live village), it’s fascinating for its extant architecture.
Enter via the East Gate (Dōngmén) and savour its warren of narrow cobblestone streets – you’ll only need about an hour – and mostly wooden houses, lovely courtyards, pavilions, temples and town walls. The surrounding area looks prime for bike exploration, too.
Just outside the old town, Lónglǐ Gǔchéng Jiǔdiàn offers basic rooms with squat toilets.
Coming from Kǎilǐ is rather arduous as there’s no direct bus. First take a bus to Jǐnpíng (锦屏; ¥91), then switch to another bus (¥16, 1½ hours, half-hourly or so from 7.30am to around 5pm) to Lónglǐ.
